Friday, 26 April 2013

Listening to Mirrors 镜听

This is a translation of the short story 镜听 from the Qing compendium 聊斋志异, which introduces the interesting custom of listening to mirrors. It also happened to be Emperor Qianlong's favourite story. The name of the collection of short stories roughly translates to 'Strange Tales of the Drawing Room', and is known as Strange Tales from a Chinese Studio.


Listening to mirrors was a type of prognostication, as mirrors were regarded as magical objects. On the night before Spring Festival, Chinese would pray to their ancestors, asking a question which they later hoped to be answered. Then they would light a stove, and fill a pot with water. A spoon would be dropped into the boiling water, then they would go in the direction indicated by the spoon. They would go the nearest door, carrying a mirror, and secretly listen to people passing outside. The first sentence overheard would be the answer to their question.

镜听

益都郑氏兄弟,皆文学士。大郑早知名,父母尝过爱之,又因子并及其妇;二郑落拓,不甚为父母所欢,遂恶次妇,至不齿礼。冷暖相形,颇存芥蒂。次妇每谓二郑:“等男子耳,何遂不能为妻子争气?”遂摈弗与同宿。于是二郑感愤,勤心锐思,亦遂知名。父母稍稍优顾之,然终杀于兄。

Yì dū zhèng shì xiōngdì, jiē wénxué shì. Dà zhèng zǎo zhīmíng, fùmǔ chángguò ài zhī, yòu yīnzǐ bìng jí qí fù; èr zhèng luòtà, bù shèn wèi fùmǔ suǒ huan, suì è cì fù, zhì bùchǐ lǐ. Lěngnuǎn xiāngxíng, pō cún jièdì. Cì fù měi wèi èr zhèng:“Děng nánzǐ ěr, hé suì bùnéng wéi qīzi zhēngqì?” Suì bìn fú yǔ tóngsù. Yúshì èr zhèng gǎn fèn, qín xīn ruì sī, yì suì zhīmíng. Fùmǔ shāoshāo yōu gù zhī, rán zhōng shā yú xiōng.

In Yidu County, Shandong Province, the Zheng family had two sons, both were scholars. The elder son achieved fame at an early age so his parents favoured him and his wife. The second son was disappointed as his parents were not fond of him. They were also mean to the second son's wife and weren't in the least bit polite to her. As the parents were warm to one son and cold to the other, a distance grew between the sons. The younger son's wife said to him, "You are both the same type of man, why is it that I am the wife with no respect (face)?" Thereupon, she refused to sleep with her husband. Consequently, the second son was motivated to be hardworking, he changed his ways and became studious and diligent, and finally he also achieved fame. His parents showed a little bit more regard towards him, but he was still not treated as well as the elder son. (杀 in this case does not mean kill, it means 不如)


次妇望夫甚切,是岁大比,窃于除夜以镜听卜。有二人初起,相推为戏,云:“汝也凉凉去!”妇归,凶吉不可解,亦置之。闱后,兄弟皆归。时暑气犹盛,两妇在厨下炊饭饷耕,其热正苦。忽有报骑登门,报大郑捷,母入厨唤大妇曰:“大男中式矣!汝可凉凉去。”次妇忿恻,泣且炊。俄又有报二郑捷者,次妇力掷饼杖而起,曰:“侬也凉凉去!”此时中情所激,不觉出之于口;既而思之,始知镜听之验也。

Cì fù wàng fu shén qiè, shì suì dà bǐ, qiè yú chúyè yǐ jìng tīng bo. Yǒu èr rén chū qǐ, xiāng tuī wèi xì, yún:“Rǔ yě liáng liáng qù!” Fù guī, xiōng jí bùkějiě, yì zhì zhī. Wéi hòu, xiōngdì jiē guī. Shí shǔqì yóu shèng, liǎng fù zài chú xià chuī fàn xiǎng gēng, qí rè zhèng kǔ. Hū yǒu bào qí dēngmén, bào dà zhèng jié, mǔ rù chú huàn dà fù yuē:“Dà nán zhōngshì yǐ! Rǔ kě liáng liáng qù.” Cì fù fèn cè, qì qiě chuī. É yòu yǒu bào èr zhèng jié zhě, cì fù lì zhì bǐng zhàng ér qǐ, yuē:“Nóng yě liáng liáng qù!” Cǐ shí zhōng qíng suǒ jī, bù jué chū zhī yú kǒu; jì'ér sī zhī, shǐ zhī jìng tīng Zhī yàn yě.

The second son's wife was extremely eager to see her husband be successful. As there would be Imperial Exams (大比) held that year, on the eve of Spring Festival she secretly listened a mirror to help divine the outcome. The wife had only just gone outside when she heard two people playing a game of pushing one another, when one said, "You should go and cool down!" The wife went home, but she could not tell if the sentence was favourable or not, and so shelved the matter. After the exams, the brothers both returned. At that time, the summer heat was still particularly strong, and both wives were in the kitchen preparing a meal for the workers. The heat was almost unbearable. Suddenly a messenger arrived at the gate, informing the family that the elder son had passed the exam. The mother entered the kitchen and said to the elder son's wife, "my eldest passed the exam, you can go and cool down." The second son's wife was angry and sad, she cried but kept on cooking. Suddenly, another messenger arrived announcing the second son had also been successful. The second wife threw down her rolling pin and said, "I (侬) am going to go and cool down too!" At that moment, she was overwhelmed with emotions, and did not notice what she had said. But later when she was thinking, she realised this was the outcome shown by the mirror.


异史氏曰:“贫穷则父母不子,有以也哉!庭帏之中,固非愤激之地;然二郑妇激发男儿,亦与怨望无赖者殊不同科。投杖而起,真千古之快事也!”

Yì shǐ shì yuē:“Pínqióng zé fùmǔ bù zi, yǒu yǐ yězāi! Tíng wéi zhī zhōng, gù fēi fènjī zhī dì; rán èr zhèng fù jīfā nán'ér, yì yǔ yuànwàng wúlài zhě shū bùtóng kē. Tóu zhàng ér qǐ, zhēn qiāngǔ Zhī kuài shì yě!”

The author (who refers to himself as 'the historian of the odd', or 'the other historian') adds, "if you are poor, then your parents will not regard you as their son; this really does happen! In the story, the rousing part was the second son's wife inspiring her husband, which is not the same as when normal people argue. When she threw down the rolling pin, that really is happiness!"



Wasn't this story a rather odd choice for an Emperor? It lacks grandiose and some of the language it uses is practically vernacular, but Qianlong had a purpose. During the reign of his father, a new wave of taxes came into being that hit the scholarly elite. The scholars were appalled at the idea they would have to pay taxes like the common farmers and merchants, as they saw themselves as completely above the common masses. In anger, scholars and their disciples boycotted the imperial examinations. 

Without applicants to take the exams, the Qing bureaucracy would begin to crumble. While Qianlong was still a prince, he had many contacts in scholarly circles. He would tell them this story as a way to encourage them to sit the exam. Even though the story's main event is the second son passing the examination, it is told from the view of the wife. It depicted how passing the exam affected not only the candidate, but all the people around him. In this case, it gave the wife great happiness and respect. 

Sunday, 21 April 2013

Spring in Bloom 盛开的鲜花

It is said that the most beautiful aspect of cherry blossom is its ephemerality. Seeing as there is such a small window of time to enjoy the flowers before they fall, Qingdao's Zhongshan Park draws in tens of thousands in one week in April. With that in mind, on the 17th of April I rushed to Zhongshan Park to see the blossoms for myself.

Outside of Japan, Qingdao can boast the largest concentration of cherry blossom trees, some 20,000. They were planted by the Japanese during their occupation from 1915 to 1922, and the trees have remained as perhaps the only welcome feature from that period. 





Capturing the moment

Zhongshan park has many other flower gardens apart from just Cherry blossoms

A view along Sakura Road



A bride and groom between wedding photos


Thousands of people took advantage of the spring bloom to visit Zhongshan park

Of course, where there are people, there is business opportunity. This was no ordinary walk in the park. Hundreds of stall holders had set up stands, peddling everything from portraits to bunny ears. Despite being in a park, don't breath in through your nose, because it won't be the scent of cherry blossoms that greets you. Stinky tofu is a hugely popular snack, and its unpleasant odour pervades the entire park. If that wasn't enough to disrupt your meditative stroll through the spring flowers, add the sound of thumping technopop, pounding away into your very soul.

Perhaps try visiting very early in the morning to avoid the crowds and music, because the scenery is stunning.


So, here's a really badly filmed video about spring blossoms. Cannot believe this is a song about how beautiful flowers are and they've filled the video with CGI. What.


Friday, 12 April 2013

Tales of Taroko 太魯閣的故事

So a few of you may have already heard me tell this escapade, in which case, read it again! Unless you are my mother. Mother, do not read this post under any circumstances. It will just make you angry and unnecessarily distressed. / End disclaimer. 

All the way back in February, I fled from cold China to temperate Taiwan. I had an absolutely great time meeting up with my old friend, Helen, who is currently studying in Japan. Our week was jam-packed with touristy goodness. We managed to visit the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall, the Palace Museum, Shilin Riverside Park, Shilin night market, Taipei 101, Zhinan temple, teahouses in Maokong, Longshan Temple, the restored Bopilao street, Botanical Gardens, the shopping hotspot of Ximending, the Red House, the Contemporary Arts Museum, Tianmu, hotsprings, and a massive hot pot dinner. One experience will tower above them all in my memory, and that is our trip to Taroko National Park. 

Having spent 4 full days touring urban Taipei, we were determined to get out of the city and explore some of Taiwan's spectacular countryside. Hello Taroko. The plan was to spend one afternoon in Taroko, and catch a late train back to Taipei so that Helen would have plenty of time to pack for her flight the next morning.      

The view from the tourist centre in Taroko National Park
To make the most of our time in the wilds, we set out from Taipei early. We caught a fast train from Taipei Main Station and arrived in Taroko around 1pm. In the tourist centre, the man at the front desk advised us to take the bus tour that stops at all the famous scenic spots. Helen and I listened. But we had just been on a 3 hour long train ride and were itching to stretch our legs. We wanted to walk in the great outdoors, to feel at one with nature. We weren't gonna sit on no bus, nuh-uh.

So we checked our map, and saw there was a route starting just next to the tourist centre. The route led to a small village on top of the mountain called Dali. We figured we'd climb up, see the village, climb down, then if we had time maybe take the tour bus. And so the journey began...

Setting off...
A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step

Checking out the flora... 
...and the fauna


Up, up, up the stairs we go
Not all those who wander are lost














































We reckon there must have been about 1km of steps. All of a sudden the stairs came to an end, with a
signpost saying 1320m left to Dali village. The route ahead was a path of moist soil, slippery rocks and winding tree roots, but we hadn't just climbed a kilometre of stairs to just turn back now. So we pressed on.

I had never been hiking. I've walked up hills before, but considered it different as I assumed the activity of hiking involved more equipment. Well now I've hiked, without equipment, or experience, or training. Hiking is just regular climbing but with more adrenaline and more risk of FALLING OFF A MOUNTAIN. Because when the stairs ended, so did the barriers. At one point we had to climb across a section where some kind of landslide had blocked the path and had cleared the trees right off the slope, giving a clear view all the way down. We hadn't seen a single person for a long time, and we were starting to get nervous about the route. Helen and I agreed that we would climb for another half an hour, then turn back if we hadn't reached Dali. Suddenly we rounded a corner to find a couple of Taiwanese aborigines and their pet monkey having a barbecue. Luckily, they spoke mandarin. We were offered some of their meat, which we declined, and were told it was only another 20 minutes to Dali.


Damn you, signposts
Oh what a cute monkey!


I





















Then things turned nasty. The monkey grabbed the knife the man was using for his barbecue and proceeded to chase us up the mountain. Yes, I have a photo of a knife-wielding monkey. 

OH MY GOD IT HAS A KNIFE, RUN FOR YOUR LIVES
We could hear the shouts of the lady echoing through the trees as she tried to call the monkey back. This is hopefully the closest I'll ever come to be hunted by Predator. GET TO DA CHOPPER!!!

Eventually, we lost the monkey and sound of the lady's voice faded out. We climbed for another 20 minutes. Then maybe another 20. And finally we came upon Dali village. If you can even call it a village. There was a fenced off electrical box, and a couple of scooters. It was an anti-climax of mountainous proportions. Especially considering how dangerous our path up had been. I didn't want to go back down the same way; climbing up was hard, climbing down would be even more risky. Helen agreed, and we pulled out our map. It showed a route that joined Dali to a scenic trail. Sure that reaching the scenic route would be less perilous than turning back, we decided to persevere. I can only remember one obvious road leading away from Dali, and the map next to it didn't actually give the direction of the road. We did what we do best, and forged ahead.


I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. 
I travel for travel's sake, the great affair is to move.
The beauty is in the walking - we are betrayed by destinations
You have got to get lost before you can be found


Hours passed and we hardly noticed. The air was fresh and warm. Our feet had set a rhythm we couldn't break free from. We walked on and on and on, weaving round an endless green mountainside. All the while hoping to reach the scenic route and head back to the tourist centre. 

As the sky gave in to the first hues of dusk, we came across a multi-coloured, single-story house in the middle of a field. A woman called out to us in Chinese, "where are you going?". We approached her and asked her where we were. "Datong," she replied. Our map showed a small point called Datong, miles away from Dali, accessible by logging trail. She told us that the path we mistakenly thought we were on had been closed last year due to damage from high winds. It wouldn't re-open until next year. Helen, meanwhile, was baffled. I was getting answered in Chinese, and all Helen really wanted to know was how to get back. When I asked, and was met with, "it's not possible, you won't make it back". The route we had arrived by was the only way. Helen and I finally wanted to turn around, admit defeat, but the woman stopped us. She asked if we had torches, or proper night clothing, which of course we didn't. She was angry we had arrived so unprepared, but was even more stubborn in refusing to let us go. 

Helen can't speak Chinese (if she can, she's been hiding it from me very well), so I spent the next hour getting an earful of how reckless we were, and how could we do this without male accompaniment, while Helen nodded happily. However, we did get complimented on the fact that we made it all that way across some pretty treacherous mountain. Hells yeah.

The lady, called Ximut, who had generously offered to let us stay for the night heated water for us over her fire. We ended up washing ourselves in buckets in her outhouse. As we were bathing, Ximut cooked us a dinner of rice, fish, vegetables, and soup. I felt so bad about imposing on her and her house that I tried to eat as little as possible, but she kept forcing food on us until we were full. The handful of villagers who live in Datong stopped by at different points during the evening. The women were horrified, and somewhat maternal, that we had journeyed to Datong alone. Whereas the men seemed more impressed by our accomplishment. One man poured us glasses of 'whiskey', which was in reality very sweet black-current juice with a little bit of alcohol. 

We headed to bed early, knowing that we had a race on our hands to make sure Helen caught her flight on time. In contrast to Taipei, we fell asleep listening to the chirruping of insects rather than the hum of traffic.

Rising with the sun the next day, Ximut prepared us plain rice porridge for breakfast with pickles and eggs on the side. The previous night I found out that Ximut actually runs a guesthouse, and takes in guests who want to experience real countryside living. Helen and I luckily had enough money cover our stay, so it ended up almost as if we had pre-booked! I don't have enough words to express how grateful I am to Ximut, her rainbow house, and her friends that looked after us when we didn't realise we needed looking after. You've got to be pretty trusting to let two foreigners who've just stumbled out of bushes stay in your house overnight.



Me and our mountain mamas
Helen and co
Our breakfast and the stove

The cloud from the day before had cleared, and on our hurried journey back, I was able to take a few shots that capture Taroko's natural landscape in all its majesty.

A good traveller has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving - Laozi
Morning over the mountains

I'm pleased to say, we made it back safely (just about) and Helen caught her flight back to Japan. I will leave you now with a quotation from Ernest Hemingway which I feel rightly sums up this adventure;

"It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end."