Thursday 21 March 2013

March 15th World Consumer Rights Day 消费者权益日

It's clear why World Consumer Rights Day is such big news in China; the lack of protection consumers face everyday when buying groceries, fast food, cars, in fact, anything at all, means 3.15 is a time to make a stand. Statistics released in 2010 by the State Administration of Industry and Commerce (SAIC) revealed 94,000 cases of substandard food production and 110,000 cases of fake and shoddy product sales, as well as thousands of other misconducts. Thankfully, these chronic breaches of consumers' basic rights can no longer be stifled. The Chinese are becoming ever more aware of their rights as consumers, correspondingly, the channels through which consumers can voice their complaints has also increased. Currently there are 339 centres spread across China handling complaints, receiving 5.21 million consumer queries in 2010 alone, alongside 22 provincial offices researching different methods of protecting consumer rights.


The Chinese melamine milk scandal of 2008
Moreover, the internet as a platform to voice dissent and dissatisfaction is proving impossible to gag. According to Reuters, Weibo, exploded with the hashtag '3.15' in the week leading up to this year's World Consumer Rights Day, appearing over 1.5 million times. On the day itself, a hugely popular state television news show, also called 3.15, publicly names and shames companies guilty of infringing consumer interests. Once aired, the Chinese take to the blogosphere to vent their wrath. In 2012, after MacDonalds was hit with accusations of improper food safety practices they saw their shares fall amid a storm of online anger. Alongside MacDonalds, the French hyper-market chain Carrefour also met with criticism over food safety. 


Exposing unscrupulous businesses makes good TV

As a result of World Consumer Rights Day, companies behave much like teachers when OFSTED are visiting, leading to "a spike in corporate good behaviour... aimed at balancing any negative press." As the Chinese are justifiably concerned about food safety, any challenge to a company's reputation or brand can cause irreparable damage to consumer trust. For example this year, just days after World Consumer Rights Day, MacDonalds gave away over a million McMuffins in a promotion unconnected with 3.15, according to Vivian Zhang (senior director of communications at MacDonalds China).  

Here's a translation of a Chinese article about World Consumer Rights Day:

快捷酒店将洗脸毛巾擦完马桶擦刷牙杯,浴巾当拖把拖地,杯子翻个面就可以了(现代金报3月13日);超市将过期食品换包装再卖,霉烂水果切拼盘,重量作假价格虚高(广州日报3月13日);足浴头顶中医科学院光环,骗游客4.8万元(中国经济网3月13日)……形形色色的侵犯消费者权益事件,似乎在“3·15”消费者权益保护日来临之际集中爆发了。
Hostels use facecloths to wipe toilet bowls and toothbrush holders, bath towels are used to mop the floor, cups simply turned upside down are acceptable for re-use (Xiandaijin Newspaper 13/3); supermarkets repackage out-of-date foodstuffs to re-sell, mouldy fruit used in fruit platters, the weight of items faked to increase the price (Guangzhou Daily 13/3); foot massages claiming to have the benefits of Chinese medicine, cheating tourists out of 48,000RMB (China Economics Website 13/3). It seems that leading up to 3.15 World Consumer Rights Day we focus on the eruption of cases of all kinds of consumer rights' violations. 
眼看又到了“3·15”消费者权益日,媒体对一些损害消费者权益的揭露多了,关于保护消费者权益的声音也多了。各地也开始每年一次的例行公事,大力宣传消费者权益保护的重要性,条幅挂上了,宣传车、宣传展板走上街头了。与此同时,网络上的“删帖”生意也迎来了一个旺季。在高声大喊“保护消费者权益”的浮华喧嚣下,一些真正的东西却被潜藏。 
Very soon it will once again be 3.15 World Consumer Rights Day; culprits of harming consumer rights are unmasked by the media in their droves, and a lot of noise is made about protecting consumer rights. Routine annual events spring up everywhere, vigorously proclaiming the importance of protecting consumer rights, banners are hung up, cars are sent out, propaganda placards parade the streets. At the same time, over on the internet, 'shan tie'* businesses welcome in their peak season. Under the ostentatious clamouring for the "protection of consumer rights", a few genuine problems are being hidden and concealed.  

*'Shan tie' 删帖 has the literal meaning to 'delete a notice' or 'remove a notice', and refers to the practice of employing people (presumably hackers) to remove posts or shut down sites revealing problems with a company's product. 

Consumer rights are of huge importance to a people who feel robbed of free choice. It's a sorry state of affairs for the Chinese who cannot freely eat food, drink water, and due the heavy pollution, even breathe without some potential risk to their health. Is World Consumer Rights Day just a band-aid solution to a much deeper epidemic of malpractice in Chinese business? How much can one day of exposure really fix the entrenched bad habits of companies? 24 hours isn't enough time to unearth all the culprits, but hopefully the increased awareness of consumers rights combined with the new systems for reporting offending products will set China along a path improving corporate responsibility and consumer trust. 

Saturday 16 March 2013

My Brief Spell Teaching 短暂教学

Just before Christmas, I agreed to teach English to a class of 5 to 6 year old Chinese children. What I wasn't told was that the nursery was a two and a half hour drive out of Qingdao, deep into the countryside and the furthest possible nursery to come under Qingdao's jurisdiction. 

After a considerable journey along an infinitely straight road straddled by endless rows of bleak, bare trees, we pulled into the car-park of a nondescript single storied building. A door opened, a plump Chinese woman appeared and bundled me into a classroom. Opposite a chalkboard covering an entire wall sat three rows of tables, each surrounded by roughly 15 children, all still enveloped in bright, thick, winter jackets. The room was cold, and decorated by faded paintings. I was immediately conscious of the silence and the 45 pairs of eyes suddenly upon me. For most of these children, I was the first non-Chinese person they had ever seen. I'm not the most foreign looking of foreigners due to my heritage, but I was still different enough for the children from other classes to scramble close to the windows to gape at me. 

I was handed a elementary level English book, full of cartoon pandas and tigers speaking English to each other, and instructed to read aloud. I'd read "Hello, I'm Panda," or "How are you?", and would be echoed by 45 voices, except for those who still found me too novel and so just stared with open mouths. The long 'read and repeat' session was followed by playing simon says, where I'd yell 'stand', 'sit', 'big', 'small', 'eyes', 'nose', 'ears', 'mouth' or 'feet'. After the game, the teachers wanted me to try talking to some of the students on a one-to-one basis. A name was called, and a boy at the back of the third row stood up. As clearly and as slowly as possible, I said, "Hello, my name is Holly, what is your name?" He looked at me with blank desperation. I smiled with encouragement, but he remained mute. A teacher behind me stage whispered the translation, and was met with equal failure. The teacher then said his name, and he finally mumbled his own name in echo. He was told to sit down. 

Another name was called; a girl in the middle of the third row stood up. I tried again, "Hello, my name is Holly, what is your name?". "What is your name?" was her response. I said with emphasis "My name is Holly, what is your name?".  "What is your name?" came back at me. The teacher beside me was mouthing the girl's name, trying to save face. She looked from me to the teacher with a baffled expression until she was told to sit. A girl in the second row was picked, and sticking to the familiar script I recited, "Hello, my name is Holly, what is your name?". "张新雨*," she said wide-eyed. Progress. "Hi, 张新雨. How old are you?" I ventured, but it was clear I'd asked one question too far. She repeated my question back to me while the teachers all made hand gestures for the number six. She sat down. A new name was called, and a boy two seats down jumped to his feet. "Hello, my name is Holly, what i-", "-SIX" he bellowed. He was quickly told to sit. 

After several more face-losing tries, the teachers selected a girl at the front of the first row, with pink flowers tied into her pigtails. I had noticed her as the most on the ball during the game of simon says. Unlike the others, she looked excited and pleased to be standing. 
"Hello, my name is Holly, what is your name?". 
"My name is 刘佳蔚*," she replied beaming.
"Hi, 刘佳蔚. How old are you?"
"I am six years old."
"Wow. Do you like school?"
"Yes. I like English and my friends."
(*created names)

Satisfied that I was now impressed with the standard of English in the class, the teachers now asked me to teach the children to sing We Wish You a Merry Christmas. This entailed me singing the first verse solo to a room of nonplussed children, perhaps more painful was watching their teachers trying to get them to copy me. I know how it feels to be forced into singing a foreign song to which you barely know the tune and even less of the words, trust me, I've been there (Year 7 Mrs Garcia's French class. Such an ordeal. My tactic was to mime). After that abject failure, it was time for photos! I felt I hadn't really achieved anything apart from scaring a few children, but the teachers were grateful nonetheless. It wasn't often a foreigner was willing to travel this far to teach, they said. As a thank you, I was presented with a book of traditional Chinese drawings and a box of special celery. 




After meeting these young children so briefly, I began to wonder what their futures had in store for them. Furthermore, I was curious about the Chinese education system that is laid out in front of them. If I remember correctly, the Chinese education system's top 5% of students outnumber all of the students in America. An education system whose 3rd graders are roughly equivalent to American high schoolers in mathematics and the sciences. But it is also an education system that many are trying to escape from, what laowai Mark Kitto calls a 'test centre' in his article about his reasons for leaving China after calling it his home for 16 years.

China maintains a state-run system of public education consisting of a mandatory eleven years, with a further four years spent earning an undergraduate degree at university. Compulsory education is divided into 5 years at primary school (ages 6 to 11), 3 years at junior middle school (ages 12-14) and 3 years at senior high school or a vocational school (15-17).

Chinese students sit an exam at the end of junior middle school called the ZhongKao to determine which high school they will attend. Naturally, competition to get into junior middle schools that have a good track record of getting students into top senior high schools is very competitive. So from the age of 12, an examination culture has already set in. Students must leap one difficult hurdle in order to be well placed for the next.

At the end of senior high school, students who wish to apply to University must sit the dreaded GaoKao 高考, the be all and end all of your path to higher education. Chinese Universities do not hold interviews and do not ask for personal statements. Everything depends on these exams. Even your degree choice will be decided by your results. Students do submit a preferred subject, but if, on the day of the exam, they perform better in another subject, they will most likely be funnelled into a degree different to their preference and therefore without any passion. The GaoKao examination's main focus is Mathematics, English and Chinese. Students also select the path of either natural science (biology, chemistry, physics) or social science (geography, history, ideology, political science) for further GaoKao exams. When I spent summer 2011 in a home-stay in Yantai, the family's daughter was a senior high school student. Even though I was there on a summer study course, the daughter spent more time studying than I did. After breakfast she would disappear into her room, emerging only for dinner. Once, I asked her if she was doing homework, she answered that she wasn't doing homework anymore because she had completed it all, she was now studying to get ahead of the course. It really is study-until-your-nose-bleeds stuff, the pressure on an only child to succeed must be immense. Without social security or benefits, the onus of supporting parents and two sets of grandparents falls on one set of shoulders.

Everyone agrees the GaoKao is difficult, but is it effective in educating China's young people? By educating, I mean allowing students to apply the wealth of knowledge they've accumulated to the wider world, to stand on their own two feet, to make connections between ideas to make something original, to create someone who is confident in their opinion but willing to change when faced with new information, and so on. Ok, it's a lot to ask of any education system to do this, but one can hope. So, the GaoKao can sort those who know the syllabus from those who don't, but everyday I meet people who "studied" English for years to pass the exam, but can't speak a single sentence. They possess an impressive vocabulary earned through years of reciting word lists, but don't understand when English is used in real life. Following the syllabus with pinpoint precision and obeying orders is the key to success in Chinese schooling. My language partners are always shocked when I tell them I've been studying Chinese for two and a half years, whereas they spent five or six years learning English and can't hold a conversation (this could also be due to the fact that the Chinese believe that their language is impenetrable to foreigners, therefore any level of fluency in Mandarin is amazing).

Even though the GaoKao is a national exam that every student must take, I recently learnt that the goalposts move depending on where you live. China's most prestigious universities are Beijing University and Qinghua University, both situated in Beijing, with other top class universities in Shanghai, Nanjing, and Xian. Which is lucky enough for pupils with a Beijing hukou (a document that sticks with you for life, without it you are not entitled to an education, healthcare, etc), because both universities will accept lower GaoKao grades from Beijing students. So much so that I recently read a Chinese article titled "究竟是北京大学还是“北京人大学"" which translates to "Is Beijing University actually Beijinger's University?". The following is an excerpt:
以去年高考为例,北京只有7.3万考生,北大计划招录人数为614人。而河南、山东、四川、安徽、湖北、河北,六省参加高考的人数是北京的45.5倍,北大在6省计划招生总人数却只有409人,六省加起来远不及一个北京。 
Taking last year's GaoKao as an example, there were only 73,000 applicants from Beijing, of these, Beijing University planned to accept 614 students. However, the number of students taking the GaoKao in the six provinces of Henan, Shandong, Szechuan, Anhui, Hubei and Hebei is forty-five times that of Beijing. Of these six provinces, Beijing University only plans to accept a total of 409 students, these six distant provinces combined are not as good as one Beijing. 
For a student applying from the countryside or a different province, a higher score than the city-dwelling students is necessary to gain a place. There was me thinking a state-run system of education for all would be equal.

What about life after the GaoKao? Personally speaking, after a term of intense revision, I tend to view my use of time as wasteful compared to how much I can get done when in revision-mode. So, after the burden of the GaoKao, do Chinese students pursue their lives of indefatigable academia into University? Apparently not. From all the Chinese university students I have spoken to, the GaoKao is the hardest thing they probably will ever do. In fact, university is relaxing in comparison. And the system of learning for exams carries on into University education, something students are already used to and comfortable with. For example, one of my language partners studied English as her undergraduate major. Upon hearing this, I wanted to know what she thought of English literature, so I picked literature's most well known figure, Shakespeare, as a point of discussion. She told me she had never actually read any of Shakespeare's works, she had only read commentaries of them recommended by the teacher so the information could be recited back for an exam. I can't think of anything more tragic for an English student. For me, getting to grips with Chinese through its short stories and poems is one of the joys of my degree, there is a joy in reading words for yourself that no commentary can communicate.

Thinking back to that room full of young faces, I can't help but feel sadness when I think of what lies ahead for them. I know no education system is perfect, but I do believe that learning is and can be made fun. Especially where originality and individuality are celebrated, both of which are lacking in the Chinese system that underlines rote learning and removes choice.



Thursday 7 March 2013

Thoughts of Home 乡愁


As I am well past the halfway mark of my year in China I have spent a lot of time thinking about my friends and family back home in England. So, I present a collection of my own translations of Chinese poetry from across the ages focusing on the theme of missing home.


Living by Jiande River 宿建德江 
Meng Hao Ran 孟浩然 680-740

移舟泊烟渚,Yí zhōu pō yān zhǔ
Mooring the boat on a misty bank,
日暮客愁新。Rìmù kè chóu xīn
In the dusk, the traveller dwells anew on his old home.
野旷天低树,Yě kuàng tiān dī shù
The wilderness is vast, the sky hangs below the trees, 
江清月近人。Jiāng qīng yuè jìn rén
The river’s water is so clear, I can touch the moon.


Miscellaneous Poem: You have come from my hometown 杂诗·君自故乡来
Wang Wei 王维 699-759 (other sources say 701-761)
  
君自故乡来,Jūn zì gùxiāng lái
Since you have come from my old hometown,
应知故乡事。Yīng zhī gùxiāng shì
You should know what is happening there.
来日绮窗前,Lái rì qǐ chuāng qián
On the day you came, passing by my silken window,
寒梅著花未?Hánméizhe huā wèi?
Had the winter plum began to blossom?


9th of the 9th month, thinking of my brothers in the East Mountains 九月九日忆山东兄弟
Wang Wei 王维

独在异乡为异客,Dú zài yìxiāng wèi yì kè
Alone, I am a stranger in a strange land,
每逢佳节倍思亲。 Měi féng jiājié bèi sī qīn
Jia festival comes round again, and I think of my family.
遥知兄弟登高处, Yáo zhī xiōngdì dēnggāo chù
From afar, I know my brothers ascend some high place,
遍插茱萸少一人。Biàn chā zhūyú shǎo yīrén
Casting sticks in prayer, they are missing one person. 




Homesick 乡愁
Guangzhong Yu 余光中 (1928-present)

小时候 Xiǎoshíhou
When I was young,
乡愁是一枚小小的邮票 Xiāngchóu shì yī méi xiǎo xiǎo de yóupiào
My longing for home was as small as a stamp,
我在这头 Wǒ zài zhè tóu
I was at one end,
母亲在那头 Mǔqīn zài nà tóu
My mother at the other.
   
长大后 Zhǎng dà hòu
As I grew,
乡愁是一张窄窄的船票 Xiāngchóu shì yī zhāng zhǎi zhǎi de chuán piào
My longing for home was as thin as a ship’s ticket,
我在这头 Wǒ zài zhè tóu
I was at one end, 
新娘在那头 Xīnniáng zài nà tóu
My bride at the other. 
   
后来啊 Hòulái a
Later in life,
乡愁是一方矮矮的坟墓 Xiāngchóu shì yīfāng ǎi ǎi de fénmù
My longing for home was as shallow as a grave,
我在外头 Wǒ zài wàitou
With me on the outside,
母亲在里头 Mǔqīn zài lǐtou
My mother inside. 
   
而现在 Ér xiànzài
And now,
乡愁是一湾湝的海峡 Xiāngchóu shì yī wān jiē dì hǎixiá
My longing for home is as wide as the Taiwan Straits,
我在这头 Wǒ zài zhè tóu
I am at one end,
大陆在那头 Dàlù zài nà tóu
My motherland at the other.


Spring Rollicks 春节来了


Many of my classmates used the winter holiday as an opportunity to go back to England, however, I decided I would persevere in the Mainland (apart from my travels in Hong Kong, the Philippines and Taiwan). I can distill my winter experience in China into a few simple photographs.

1.Smog


Friends in Beijing reported the smog there was so thick that it was even smoggy on the underground inside trains. The BBC dubbed the clouds of pollution ‘Airmageddon’ and it certainly felt that way. Everything was engulfed in an impenetrable grey haze that lasted for weeks. According to a Beijing University Director the colder-than-normal conditions and lack of wind heightened the problem. Click here for a collection of phosmography that simply takes your breath away... and fills your lungs with PM2.5. 

2. Noise

The aftermath of a firecracker explosion
The adverts of a purveyor of noise and misery
Unwanted wake up call

In a previous post about Chinese New Year traditions, I mentioned firecrackers. OH MY GOD THE NOISE. Stands selling fireworks and firecrackers popped up on every street corner, and on every other street corner, someone else was setting them off. It was just a constant barrage of explosions lasting for days with no apparent regulations on how early or how late they could be set off. On one morning however, firecrackers were not enough, and as you can see from my photograph, a troop of 25 drummers was deployed right under my window. That performance was followed up by an hour of Peking Opera. Never, ever, ever let me spend Spring Festival here again. 

1. CCTV

Gotta love CCTV. They put on a Spring Festival TV gala that has become as much of a new year tradition as overindulging on food. I learnt whatever the performance, be it martial arts, ballet, or singing, it is always relevant and necessary to show images of jet fighters and battleships in the background. Maybe throw in an astronaut or two for good measure. Then add some Celine Dion to mix it up a bit.